A Mini Publication

As part of an Editorial Journalism module at uni, FOLK is the outcome of months of research, planning, writing and photography. Focusing on identity, diversity and ideals in society, my mini magazine explores concepts of flexible visual identities, ageism in fashion and body image. 

Error? See the mag here

The Forgotten Age

What does beauty entail? Top Family Fortunes answers would include confidence, lovely eyes and a slim build, but another likely, more debatable, answer would be ‘youth’.
Words and graphics by Rosie Sparks

     Fashion and media industries orbit the easily influenced and highly powerful youth culture. Advertising and pop music sing out to young generations to enthuse their exciting, carefree existence. These years are often said to be the best times of your life, and we appear to reach an age for these experiences to be considered by society as unsuitable. Conformity pressures are associated with adolescence, but older women may certainly be victim to conventionality, as society often gives them frumpy housewife stereotypes. Messages in the media drive the idea that physical ageing is undesirable and almost curable. Younger models present fashion trends and TV adverts include older female models often in domestic settings: presenting germ-ridding products, catering for the family and having weight and appearance concerns. Many women, however, continue to celebrate their individually and visual personalities with fashion.

     78-year old New York boutique-owner Lynn Dell truly inspires. Her flamboyant style is a frequent feature on AdvancedStyle, a blog that celebrates mature flair. Lynn has a colourful perspective on this part of her life and motivates her clients each day with her motto ‘dress for the theatre of your life!’ She encourages fashion risks, ‘making mistakes is the best thing! I am lucky enough to have the day to dress how I like, so I’ll keep going until I can’t stop!’

     When women come into Lynn’s extravagant boutique, the team inspires clients to find something wonderful. ‘We get people who say ‘I’m too fat, I’m too old…’ but we tell them to try something new…everything doesn’t have to match, just be creative!’ She considers women aged 40+ through the eyes of the industry, ‘[society] ignores people over a certain age. We have the taste, but every young girl wants to look like her friend Suzie with long hair.’ Lynn believes these women have potential to explore their inner glamour. ‘They are neglected by themselves. We can’t focus on ‘what I don’t have, what I don’t look like’. You make life fun and enjoyable, as so many things aren’t fun!’ Lynn’s beauty essential is for all ages: ‘Once you put a smile on your face, everything looks good!’ Her belief in women is touching and her poise, radiance and enthusiasm for life and style shone through her words.

     Channel 4 aired a hit documentary FabulousFashionistas in September, and was a stark contrast to previous productions of 10 Years Younger and How Not to Get Old. A group of 6 women, with the average age of 80, exhibit their infinitely energetic, optimistic and spritely outlooks on life. Each woman’s ethos manifests in colour, independence, and fearlessness. Gillian still loves to wear mini skirts, and although the public may think ‘who does she think she is?’ she replies ‘I don’t give a toss!’ and maintains her performance arts career aged 87.

     When shopping with my 53-year old mother Christine, she leaves each shop, feeling ‘anxious, depressed and frustrated’. She states she feels most confident when feeling she looks nice, but this is problematic. ‘It’s hard to find the styles to suit my body as it’s changing, but there’s also not enough styles for older women who don’t feel old!’ For the highstreet to deliver to these women, both entities must be open and engaging with one another. Drapers claims 45% of 45-54 years olds prefer researching purchases in store than online, compared to 38% of 18-24 year olds. If this is the case, why are current retail environments accustomed to marketing towards, and serving younger consumers?

     A recent survey for FOLK magazine revealed over half of the British women aged 40-60 asked, a reassuring 73% expressed they own a personal style. 90%, however, claimed their fashion choices to be ‘safe’ purchases. Safety is not necessarily negative – attraction to familiarity and wishing for comforts are natural human traits, but it may be the limited encouragement and confidence to try something new that is socially influenced. Credibly, over half of these women expressed feeling of neglect and being unvalued by the fashion industry.

     All respondents stated they often question if clothes are ‘too young’ for them. An assumption that mature women do not and cannot remain part of the fashion scene may restrain their self-assurance and dampen the acceptance of ageing in this industry. With all respondents investing in anti-ageing cosmetics, hair dyeing and vitamin supplements, it may indicate that they, and society, favour a youthful look and believe signs of growing older should be postponed, or eliminated all together.  Conclusively, 63% of these women admitted to feeling pressured from the media and fashion industry to remain youthful looking.

     Fortunately, high fashion is beginning to embrace the wrinkles and lead the way with older models. Models commonly retire before the age of 30, but Daphne Selfe, 82, and Isabella Rossellini, 60, have recently graced advertising campaigns for Dolce and Gabbana and Bulgari, respectively. Jacquie Tajah Murdock, 82, modelling for Lanvin, claimed ‘it wasn’t until I was in my 40s that I began to see my beauty.’ This year, M&S celebrated the beauty found in all ages of women, in ads featuring Ellie Goulding, Tracey Emin and Grace Coddington, amongst others, in a presentation of timeless style and female unity.

     Yves Saint Laurent famously said ‘fashion fades, style is eternal’. With age comes maturity, and the knowledge of one’s self.  Older women must deem their individual characters as perpetual, and proudly present this by fashion and active lifestyles. Insisting to dress down after the age of 50 is absurd. No woman should be prescribed the dowdy, shapeless option, rather than taking her own inspired initiative to make a truly desired decision. Believe ‘why the hell not, I may never have the chance again!’ because this may be the ticket to eternal vitality and passionate promotion of the self for years to come. 

Article part of Editorial Journalism university 

module, exploring the theme of 'identity and fashion'.

Maude's Mint

[Apologies for the punny title, but the Geordie slang fitted so well]

Maude Boutique's stunning mint necklace instantly caught my eye whilst browsing Shopify on Instagram, and WOW, how awesome is their jewellery all the way from Fayetteville, Arkansas! Statement necklaces and costume earrings have long been on the scene now, and Zara and Topshop have had loads of gorgeous chokers but most of these seem to be about £40 with the gold turning pink after a couple of wears!

Many of these incredibly priced pieces come in alternate colour schemes, but I've found my favourite ones. I'll definitely be sharing this post with my parents, who have gone to the US for Thanksgiving this week - perhaps they could pick up a sparkly little stocking filler for me...

1. The blues necklace - $25 £15.50

2. Talking tulips necklace - $35 £21.50

3. Blossom choker - $45 £27.50

4. Taste the rainbow necklace - $32 £19.50

1. O my! Earring - $12 £7.50

2. Blue garden earring - $14 £8.50

3. Bee dangle earring - $10 £6

4. Crystal drop earring - $9 £5.50

5. Bug post earring - $6 £3.50

"A Maude Girl is much more than her closet, but the one she has should be full of 

clothes that help her feel confident as she makes her dreams happen"

Mayamiko Designed

Back in September, I had the pleasure of discovering an ethically produced, African designed
 clutch bag by Mayamiko Designed.

Since then their products and brand ethics have captured me, as I've worked with them on their social networking presence. The Mayamiko Trust cause is so admirable, producing stunning clothing and accessories with traditional African design techniques. Each week 'til Christmas, I've been putting together some highstreet edits, featuring the latest A/W fashion from the highstreet complemented by exclusive Mayamiko products.

Take a look, be inspired and grab yourself some gorgeous, ethical 
products for wonderful Christmas presents this year:

Ida clutch in flaming hearts print - £25

Mirror print t-shirt by Eloise Rapp - £25

Pencil skirt in blue chitenje print - £40

Ida clutch in Indian chitenje print - £25

Ida clutch in Sun Chitenje print - £25

Hirst for McQueen

Damien Hirst collaborates with Alexander McQueen to create these dead pretty scarves to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the iconic skull scarf

Fab Fashionistas

See life through the eyes of 6 women with infinitely youthful perspectives. Bridget, Gillian, Daphne, Sue, Jean and Lady Trumpington are a group of extraordinary women. With an average age of 80, the group share a spirited and optimistic outlook on life, despite many of them being widowed and the expectation society has for them today. They have not faded into the background or turned into ‘little old ladies’ as they have matured, but retained the same interests they have always had, including a love of fashion and keeping up appearances.

Bridget claims she has always been one for experimentation with colour, shapes and styles, but it is now much more noticeable to others now as she is older. Understandably, it’s a surprise to see such a boldly dressed elderly woman walking down the street, but she does it for herself and exclaims ‘It’s nothing to do with looking younger…. I think I am a bit of a show off!’.

Gillian still loves to wear mini skirts, and although much of the public may ask ‘Who does she think she is?!’ as it is associated with those closer to adolescence, she says ‘I don’t give a toss!’ and remains in a full time performance arts career at 87.

All women have refused to give into the mental concept of ageing. Yes, they may accept the physical attributes of a maturing lady, but they embrace these and demonstrate their young minds with sprightely attitudes and activities. Dancing, jogging and doing yoga, even being independent by doing the weekly food shop alone and going to the hair salon, in their 80s is seen as unsuitable for their age. Nevertheless, they all succeed each day by claiming each morning as the beginning of a new day. Seeing everyday as another to live in the future, these women have more appreciation for their vitality than a lot of teenagers I know!

It is not necessarily the style that these women have which is so admirable, as I agree, not all women must be fashion-queens with a taste for exotic colours and textures, but it is their mindset that is so infectious. It seems to me, they have never believed they have been getting older, and when I watch them talk about the things they continue to love and live for, I trust they haven’t felt older than 21 in their lives.

With a history of elderly mental illness in my family, it is impossible to believe that there can be people in their mid-80s, the age of my own grandma, who are so psychologically agile. It is scary to imagine my mother or myself ‘losing our marbles’ sooner than we would like, but these women give us faith for the dismissal of invisibility our older generations face. If that means doing yoga, wearing whatever I like and doing a bit of BrainTraining now and again, it sounds like a pretty sweet life.

Watch Fabulous Fashionistas here

Highstreet Hitlist - Textured Knits

Embrace the textured statement knits which are coming

 in as fast as the leaves are falling.

Chelsea Girl Cherry Eyelash Jumper - River Island - £32

Crazy Bobble Jumper - Topshop - £44

Silver Foil Jumper - H&M - £17.99

Cream and Black Pom Pom Jumper - Miss Selfridge - £39 £29

Suited and Booted

How amazing are these smart but playful Doc shoes!? Simple and smart, with laser cut design to reveal postbox red card suit symbols.

Sparkly Apple

Rimmel apple varnish with Louise Gray Topshop 'Hat Trick' gold/green sparkly polish on top.

Identity Exploration

As part of a current Fashion Communication module, we explore the concept of identity and diversity within society and the fashion industry, to create our own mini-magazine presenting these issues. My processes are recorded in a new Tumblr:

Schiaparelli '38

Amazing bug collar by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1938 was so modern for it's time

For An Ethical Fashion Future

Working for, and with, African communities experiencing economic and social difficulties, Mayamiko strives for global sustainability and human equality. 

The Mayamiko Trust, a UK based charity, aims to empower women in disadvantaged African communities. Mostly working in Malawi, Mayamiko promotes the value of education and transferable skills, to encourage self-sustainability and rewarding workmanship. The Trust argues education, training and nurture is the key to reprieve such stark poverty by unemployment relief. By defending their honour and independence, Mayamiko helps the locals nurture and restore their communities through their own ambition and willingness to learn. 

The Mayamikans create beautiful, vibrant clothing and accessories, using traditional African techniques such as batik and tie dye. International demand for unique ethnic fashion pieces is at its highest ever, and Mayamiko aims to make their authentic, locally made items available for African textile lovers across the globe. 

My favourites from the 2013-premiered Mayamiko online boutique:

1. Ida Clutch in Vase Chitenje - £35

2. Ida Clutch in Sun Chitenje - £25

3. Ellina Wash Bag in Vase Chitenje - £25

4. Cushion Cover in Blue Dip Dye - £15
5. Mirror Tee by Eloise Rapp - £25

I definitely consider myself part of this fashion demographic and was thrilled to find their beautiful Ida clutches.

I won't lie, I personally didn't embrace the whole 'oversized clutch' trend when it blew up. Being quite petite, I assumed it would look like I was tottering around town carrying a huge laptop case under my arm. I've now been swayed. The Mayamiko Designed Ida clutch in Vase Chintenje is too loud to be A5 sized, so I love this piece as a statement, not just a handy holdall.

Being a bit of a compulsive clasher, here I wore it casually with an Aztec River Island playsuit with a loose black Uniqlo tee, tied to the side for a bit of shape. Black tights suit the season and bright yellow Office slippers pick out the primary colours of the playsuit.

Mayamiko products are special. Each is different; made with indigenous creativity and cultivated craftsmanship. Made from 100% Malawian cotton, this clutch is a perfect product of traditional African textiles and contemporary Western fashion. The progress the Mayamiko team have made with disadvantaged communities is so virtuous. With other projects set to develop in the near future (an accomplished fashion college), this admirable company is inspiring us to take more ethical steps towards a healthier, more sustainable and equal global fashion future. Are you on board?

www.mayamiko.com

GET INVOLVED

Vintage Fayre Finds

Vintage Aquascutum scarf and faux fur collar for £15! Bargain at Lou Lou's Vintage Fayre at Castlegate, Newcastle.

Skinnydip: Gaudy Glamour

    I've been searching for the perfect iPhone case for months now! £2.99 rubber cases, from an eBayer somewhere in The Orient, just don't cut it (learned from experience). Finally, a company that has been popping up all over the high street offers a stylish substitute.

    Warning: Sickly-sweet fashion follows

    Skinnydip is a success-snowballing venture from London. Launched after a golden ticket from the BBC Dragons in 2010, its three founders certainly appear to be capitalising their appearance in the Den. Now selling the eclectic 'Bling' range of electronic accessories and clutch bags, Skinnydip marries bold colour and plastic rhinestones for undoubtable tackiness in the best way.

    Resembling costume jewellery disassembled and glued to sleeves and cases of popular electronic devices, these fabulous accessories are bound to get a reaction. I imagine it to be a challenge for one of these dastardly flamboyant pieces to go unnoticed in the club or, less glamorously; on the bus. Negative comments or ones of admiration would probably both be appreciated as these are definite attention seekers. It's lucky current fashion is encouraging such frivolity with bright synthetics and unashamed decorative excess. I'm a fan.

Black iPad Case - £20 @ River Island

Cream iPad Case - £22 @ Topshop

iPhone 5 Sunset Case - £18

Bottle Green Clutch Bag - £40 @ Topshop

These faux fur accessories also scream

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Blue Pom Pom Phone Charm - £5

Red Faux Fur Case - £15

A New Sparkle

New cartilage piercing from Woody's in High Wycombe. Sunglasses from Asos

R Ring

Dainty initial ring from Daisy Jewellery with silver band and gold R.

Pre-Autumn Purchases

PREPARING FOR MY FAVOURITE FASHION SEASON

(and nippy Newcastle)

'Juste Parfait' Slogan Knit - Zara - £35.99 £9.99

My childhood involved much huffing and puffing over scratchy sock seams and itchy jumpers. I wouldn't have stood for this Acrylic/Alpaca mix but when the slogan is this cute (and it's a tenner), you just GET OVER IT.

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Crop Check Shirt - Topshop - £28 

Black (which I thought was blue when I bought it?) and white ✓ check flannel ✓ cropped ✓ 
I teamed this beauty with a red Topshop satchel and lipstick @ The Jazz Cafe last month

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Iridescent Clutch - Zara - £19.99

I've been on the look out for a holographic/iridescent bag for a while. After seeing the &OtherStories and Affix London  clutches, I'm glad I held out because I'm in love with this one from Zara's new collection. The orange version is just as tempting, but not as versatile. Classic shape with a futuristic shine - ADORE. 

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Black/Silver Cardigan - Dorothy Perkins - £10

One of my first purchases from DP whilst working there this summer. Another winter warmer to add to my knitwear collection featuring either sparkles or fluffy bits. Lucky this had both...

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Leopard Scarf with Fluoro Stripe - £19 £7.99

Finally from Zara, faithful as ever, an electric blue scarf with a zesty double stripe
looks awesome with leather and jeans.

Dots for Dotty P

Green spotty treggings from UniQlo, bright yellow patent slippers from Office for work at Dorothy Perkins.

Flouro for Holiday

Embroidered bikini from River Island, fluorescent leather sandals from Urban Outfitters

Shiny Shiny

Sparkly socks and patent Zara loafers for an interview in London.

Pendants

Hanging pendants in my room.
Scissors by This Charming Girl
Blue bow by Cath Kidston
Stone cross by Topshop
Round caged stone by Sphere of Life
Turquoise stone (not sure where from!)
Silver eagle with bomb by Tom Binns
Multiple gold rings by Topshop
Colourful pirate ship by Topshop
Rosebud (unknown)
Scrabble piece (unknown)

Highstreet Hitlist - Bikinis

Finding the perfect summer bikini can be really difficult with each year offering new silhouettes and styles. Going through endless mixing and matching of halter, cup or bandeau options paired with tie-side, short or brief bottoms to find most flattering set is frustrating. For me, I love a gorgeous summery print and usually go for a triangle string bikini. This is because, as a petite pear, it can lengthen my thighs and is the most practical for both swimming and tanning! I also like plain-coloured bottoms as it slims below the waist and keeps attention to pattern above. Regardless of how much you want to show or cover, it's important to pick something secure to feel comfortable in the waves as well as on the sun lounger ☀

Here are my favourites on the high street for this summer.

1- Japanese Flower Bandeau - Zara - £15.99

2- Japanese Flower Briefs - £15.99

3- Melons! Top - Drop Dead - £5

4- Melons! Bottoms - Drop Dead - £5

5- Paisley Bandeau - Accessorize - £15

6- Black Tieside Pants - Topshop - £8

7, 8 - Polka Dot Bikini - Topshop - £30

9- Tropical Balconette Top - Ted Baker - £45

10- Tropical Bottoms - Ted Baker - £35

11, 12- Porcelain Floral Bikini - Topshop - £30

13- Ethnic Turtle Triangle Top - Urban Outfitters - £16

14- Ethnic Turtle Bottoms - Urban Outfitters - £12

15- Fruit Print Top - American Apparel - £26

16- Fruit Print Bottoms - American Apparel - £26

HOH's Empire

Gorgeous Empire print wallpaper from House of Hackney in Pitcher and Piano Newcastle

FOOTAGE

Contemporary Design Influences
Fashion Film

@Elis_Finlayson

@sophiegavins

@Greta_Galilee

Hammer Time

Zara elephant print tee, Zara printed pants, Topshop mulberry cardigan, Dorothy Perkins tie-dye denim hobo bag.

Cream Lace

A new cream lace top from my birthday-sharing best friend: H&M, burnt orange stripe skirt from Forever21

Creating Liberty x GHD

So excited about this concept I'm working on for uni - a collaboration between Liberty London and GHD for a limited edition range of hair electricals! What could be better than Liberty floral hair straighteners??

An Interview and a First Date

An internship interview and a date watching Deaf Havana at Union Chapel in London today. Topshop embroidered blouse, H&M printed trousers, French connection black leather jacket, Topshop green bowling bag.

A Bud for a Bud

A gorgeous real rosebud is frozen in this delicate necklace. I received it for my birthday from my older brother who still uses my childhood nickname Bud.

African Shirt Company

  I came across The African Shirt Company in last week's Grazia and was captured by their vivid designs. I'm a sucker for a good ethnic pattern because they're always bursting with spirit and character. The earthy colours of orange, brown and deep blue sit next to one another in a clashing complement, drawing the African landscape it's been hand-made amongst.

   The bold shirts display the traditional design culture of its Kenyan producers. I later realised it also represents a more promising future brightened from this company's investment in two Kenyan mothers. Ruth and Clara are locals who have learned pattern cutting and sewing to make these shirts. Aiming to help the struggling village Kiteghe, The African Shirt Company profits are used to build a tree nursery to restore the increasing desertification in the community. Traditional farming income is threatened here by drought all year round and this environmental degradation with a lack of education prevents its restoration. The Company supports environmental education and land management schemes which will provide a sustainable landscape for food and trade.
  

I love how these shirts tell their story so well. They are also incredibly unique, with only 4 of each pattern made.

Here are some of my favourites... 

Women's

Men's

All shirts - £50

The African Shirt Company

ASOS Marketplace